28 May 2008

Cupping Colombian Medallin

MMmmm, hush my sweet your time is nigh. A Simpsonesque response to the iminent devouring of a favourite donut. I, however, felt the same response with the prospect of my first tasting of the morning of this deservedly popular coffee.

Perhaps a little unfairly, Colombian coffee seems to be everywhere these days and familiarity can sometimes lead to comtempt or at least be dismissed.

Firstly this coffee - a light to medium roasted coffee from the Medallin region of the AburrĂ¡ Valley, acting more or less as a bullseye to the cartography of the country, it should be treated with velvet gloves. Treat it as if handling a rare manuscript rather than a shabby old book and you will start to unlock the subtleness that is so often overlooked.

OK enough of my hyperbole and onto the tasting. First take in the aroma. Remember this is a subtle coffee, more of a spring lamb than craggy ram. This coffee will never be a heavyweight so treat it as such. Barry MaGuigan not Frank Bruno. Sip, suck in some air, and pick off the individual flavours. The weight is light, but there is something there.

Look, forget the flavour for a second (it will take that long before it really gets there), close your eyes and imagine a Tuscan valley bathed in sunlight while a croissant awaits you for breakfast. Then you will get the delicate overtones - what is it? winey - no, woody - no, bitter - definitely no, hazelnut - arh now we're getting somewhere, a hint of pistachio I think (we are talking hints here). Initial acidity is light but disappears quickly and overtaken by some weight at the centre of your tongue. Swallow and the taste goes quickly leaving little aftertaste, making your tastebuds needing another fix before excitement fades and life seems dull again.